Category Archives: Avantgarde Fashion

Fear of God 3rd collection bomber video review

I just published on my youtube channel the review of the Fear of God 3rd collection Olive bomber jacket. The garment, designed by Los Angeles based Jerry Lorenzo, draws heavily into military references, vintage and also Haider Ackermann. I hope you will enjoy this video, remember to share and subscribe – and stay tuned for the written review and outfit post coming on the blog pages in the next months. Have a nice week, and cheers.

First impression: Horisaki design & handel hat

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Horisaki design & Handel, established in Småland, Sweden, is without a doubt the most coveted headwear brand in the field of avantguardism: it originated from the collaboration between a Japanese hatmaker and a Swedish designer, focusing on a style that draws inspiration from the nature of the Scandinavian forest and countryside. All of its pieces – from what I experienced – are made in Sweden using the highest grade materials with modern techniques and treatments; today I’ll give you an overview of one of these Horisaki hats, which my friend Stefano of the boutique Paris kindly borrowed me for this article.

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The first thing which catches the eye is the fabric itself of the hat: you see it for the first time and then you’re left questioning about what kind of material is that – something that could easily belong to a post apocalyptic world. The entire upper of the Horisaki hat is made of a single piece of rabbit felt, without any seams or stitches: the felt has been molded and treated to achieve this particular shape, something like a fedora with exaggerated features and proportions. The treatment of the felt doesn’t stop to its structure: it was burned, with a procedure that you can see in the gif below; thanks to this, the garment is unique (all hats are handmade individually and two of them are never the same ) and obtains a texture similar to what I previously seen only on some handmade leathers and Kuboraum glasses. The felt of this Horisaki hat acquired a shade of color between a dark grey and a rusted brown, and on the majority of the fabric you can find blisters and veins caused by the fire: every time you turn it around or the light is shed from another point on this beautiful piece of headwear, you’ll notice new particulars and touches in other notes of the grey and brown colors, particulars that will grow in quantity and uniqueness as the tear and wear will affect the hat.

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First impression: Jan Jan Van Essche wide brim hat

As my wardrobe changed in the last year, my interest in hats arisen, along with the outfits I could mix them in. Therefore, when I found this Jan Jan Van Essche wide brim hat, it seemed a good choice for my clothes: the design is a mix of western and peasantwear, with a brim measuring 7 cm from the crown and an overall diameter of about 34 centimeters ( 13.3 inches ).

For the uninitiated, Jan Jan Van Essche is a Belgian designer focusing strictly on menswear who launched his first collection in 2011, and he has won the Dries Van Noten design award. Van Essche works in a peculiar way, producing only one collection per year with each garment and accessory strongly linked to each other, permitting the wearer to adapt to every season as they pass by and also creating an embracing aesthetic.

Interior of the hat - there is no lining, just the designer tag and another one with the history behind the handcrafting of this item.

Interior of the hat – there is no lining, just the designer tag and another one with the history behind the handcrafting of this item.

The construction is something I’ve never seen before in headwear, made of a structured shape of dried woven grass covered in alpaca felt, in its undyed natural black color. The texture varies from the spots where the warm and chaotic fibers of the alpaca felt cover the hats in a deep black, to the patches where we get a glimpse of the almost geometrical dried grass pattern, characterized by a color that resembles the palette of a wicker chair. Worth mentioning are the little details that give personality to this Jan Jan Van Essche garment, like the tag on the inside with the explanation of the process put into the realization of this hat, along with the lady who crafted it ( Ann Gallard, from the Belgian city of Antwerp, the same where JJVA was born ) and some tips of grass that come out from the black cotton candy that is the alpaca felt.

As for its mixing with other garments, I think this Jan Jan Van Essche wide brim hats complements well various styles; obviously it gives its best with avant-guard pieces in the likes of Paul Harnden, but in my opinion it also pairs greatly with a sixties vibe look or even in a streetwear/western mix with some kind of lightly weaved poncho, especially for summer. Due to the choice of materials, the hat seems quite fragile, but I’ll definitely post a full review on itself with info regarding how it holds after lot of wear and some full-body fitpics on how I incorporated it them in the month to come, so stay tuned if you like.

Aerial view of the hat.

Aerial view of the hat.

Side view of the hat.

Side view of the hat.

Detail of the texture: notice the mix of alpaca felt and woven grass.

Detail of the texture: notice the mix of alpaca felt and woven grass.